PLATTS
LANE WINDS its way between London’s Finchley Road and West Heath Road in
Hampstead. It follows the route of a track between Hampstead Heath and West End
(now West Hampstead). This track was already in existence by the mid-18th
century. According to a historian of Hampstead, Christopher Wade, the
thoroughfare was first called Duval’s Lane to commemorate a 17th
century French highwayman. Louis (alias Lodewick alias Claude) Duval (alias
Brown) who was, according to another historian, Thomas Barratt, famed for being
gallant towards his victims, many of whom he robbed on Hampstead Heath. Barratt
related:
“It
used to be told that, after stopping a coach and robbing the passengers at the
point of the pistol on the top of the Hill, he would, having bound the
gentlemen of the party, invite the ladies to a minuet on the greensward in the
moonlight.”
Duval
was hung at Tyburn soon after 1669.
Over
time this track’s name became corrupted to Devil’s Lane. A pious local resident,
Thomas Pell Platt (1798-1852), probably put an end to that name after he had
built his home, Childs Hill House, nearby in about 1840.
Platt
graduated at Trinity College in Cambridge in 1820 and became a Major Fellow of
his college in 1823. While at Cambridge, he became associated with the British
and Foreign Bible Society and was its librarian for a few years. He was also an
early member of The Royal Asiatic Society (founded 1823) as well as a member of
The Society of Antiquaries of London. In 1823, he prepared a catalogue of the
Ethiopian manuscripts in a library in Paris. In addition, he did much work with
biblical manuscripts written in the Amharic and Syriac languages. Apart from
being a scholar, he was an intensely religious man. He died not in Hampstead
but in Dulwich.
Platt
lived near the lane named after him for quite a few years. The same cannot be
said for a later resident of Platts Lane, Tomas Garrigue Masaryk (1850-1937),
who was born in Moravia (now a part of the Czech Republic). Masaryk added the
name Garrigue to his own when he married the American born Charlotte Garrigue (1850-1923)
in 1878. A politician serving in the Young Czech Party between 1891 and 1893,
he founded the Czech Realist Party in 1900. At the outbreak of WW1, he decided
that it would best if the Czechs and Slovaks campaigned for independence from
the Austro-Hungarian empire. He went into exile in December 1914, staying in
various places before settling in London, where he became one of the first staff
members of London University’s School of Slavonic and East European Studies,
then later a professor of Slavic Research at Kings College London.
In
London, Masaryk first lived in a boarding house at number 4 Holford Road in
Hampstead (http://tg-masaryk.cz/mapa/index.jsp?id=285&misto=Pobyt-T.-G.-Masaryka-1915-1916).
In June 1916, he moved from there to number 21 Platts Lane, which was near to
the former Westfield College where his daughter Olga was studying. The house, the
whole of which he rented, became a meeting place for the Czechoslovak
resistance movement in England. Masaryk stayed in Platts Lane until he departed
for Russia in May 1917. It is possible that he returned there briefly when he
made a visit to London in late 1918. On the 14th of September 1950,
the Czechoslovak community affixed a metal plaque to the three-storey brick
house on Platts Lane, which was built in the late 1880s. It reads:
“Here
lived and worked during 1914-1918 war TG Masaryk president liberator of
Czechoslovakia. Erected by Czechoslovak colony 14.9.1950”
Actually,
Masaryk only used the house between 1916 and 1917. The year that the plaque was
placed was a century after Masaryk’s birth year. The day chosen, the 14th
of September, was that on which he died in 1937.
Not
too far away from Masaryk’s Hampstead home, there is a place on West End Lane
that used to be called The Czechoslovak Club before it became the Czechoslovak
Restaurant and currently Bohemia House. Here you can see a portrait of Masaryk
and enjoy yourself sampling Czech beers and food. The establishment is within
the Czechoslovak National House, which was founded as a club in 1946.
The
houses where Czechoslovakia’s freedom fighter lived in London still stand in Hampstead.
However, that is no longer the case for another freedom fighter and founder of
a new nation, who lived near Platts lane on West Heath Road, the wealthy barrister
and founder of Pakistan, Muhammad Ali Jinnah (1876-1948). In the 1930s, Jinnah
practised law in London. One of his biographers, Hector Bolitho (1897-1975)
wrote (in 1954):
“One
day in June 1931, when Jinnah was walking in Hampstead, he paused before West
Heath House, in West Heath Road. It was a three-storied villa, built in the
confused style of the 1880s, with many rooms and gables, and a tall tower which
gave a splendid view over the surrounding country. There was a lodge, a drive,
and eight acres of garden and pasture, leading down to Childs Hill.
All
are gone now, and twelve smaller, modern houses occupy the once-pretty
Victorian pleasance. Nearby lives Lady Graham Wood, from whom Jinnah bought the
house; and she remembers him, on the day when he first called, as “most
charming, a great gentleman, most courteous…
…
In September 1931 Jinnah took possession of West Heath House, and he assumed
the pattérn of life that suited him. In place of Bombay, with the angers of his
inheritance for ever pressing upon him, he was able to enjoy the precise,
ordained habits of a London house. He breakfasted punctually and, at nine
o'clock, Bradbury was at the door with the car, to drive him to his chambers in
King's Bench Walk. There he built up his new career, with less fire of words, and
calmer address, than during the early days in Bombay.”
It
was at West Heath House that Jinnah entertained Liaquat Ali Khan (1895-1951),
another of Pakistan’s founding fathers and its first Prime Minister, who had
arrived from India. Bolitho wrote:
“A
great part of the fortunes of Pakistan were decided оn the day, in July 1933,
when Liaquat Ali Khan crossed Hampstead Heath, to talk to his exiled leader.”
Bolitho
recorded that Liaquat’s wife recalled the occasion:
“Jinnah
suddenly said, ‘Well, come to dinner on Friday.’ Sо we drove to Hampstead. Іt
was a lovely evening. And his big house, with trees—apple trees, I seem to
remember. And Miss Jinnah, attending to all his comforts. I felt that nothing
could move him out of that security. After dinner, Liaquat repeated his plea,
that the Muslims wanted Jinnah and needed him.”
At
the end of the evening, Jinnah said to Liaquat:
“’You
go back and survey the situation; test the feelings of all parts of the
country. I trust your judgment. If you say “Come back,” I'll give up my life
here and return.’”
Jinnah
returned to India in 1934, and Pakistan was created in August 1947.
Judging
by Bolitho’s description, Jinnah’s Hampstead house could not have been very far
from the house which Masaryk rented in Platts Lane, which, like Jinnah’s garden,
is close to, or more accurately on, Childs Hill. I have found Jinnah’s house
marked on a map surveyed in the 1890s. It was located on the west side of the
northern part of West Heath Road, about 430 yards north of Masaryk’s residence
on Platts Lane.
It
might come as much of a surprise as it was to me to learn that the founders of
two countries, each of which was founded soon after the ending of World Wars, both
lived in Hampstead for brief periods in their lives.